Water is the most stable thing I know.
Maybe, that's why I feel the need to be near it constantly. Personally, I am not a very stable person. I love change. I live for change. When given the option of stability or risks, I will always choose the risk, because I am not a fan of the safe, the boring, the same. Water moves with me. No matter where I go, or how I change; it is always there to greet me. The world is connected by water, so when I look out at the ocean in Point Loma, my family and friends can look out at that same ocean in LA. It's a comforting feeling.
As I look out over Sunset Cliffs, the whole thing almost seems surreal to me. It has such a calming effect, nothing else matters. It's pensive. When I look at other people around me, they all seem to be deep in thought, calm. I watch the way the sun reflects on the water, the way the wind sweeps over the waves. Being a sailor and a surfer, I check the wind location, look for light spots, and watch the waves break. I love being on the water. Be it sailing or surfing, I feel so connected to the world. My happiest memories involve the water. As the waves break and crash, break and crash, I am reminded of the times I have spent with the water.
In surfing, you just have to go for it. You can't hold back. When you see a good wave, you have to take it. Maybe you fall off or get hurt once in awhile, but you have to live for every moment. That's how I live my life on and off the water. I have to risk some things in order to succeed. I know in Redondo Beach where I usually surf up in LA, that the best waves come unexpectedly. Sometimes you sit for hours it seems just waiting for the right wave, but when it comes it never fails to disappoint. What I have learned to do, is just go in without any expectations, because expectations are deadly. I live by this rule daily. I can't let high expectations ruin the moment, because like in surfing, the best things happen unexpectedly.
3 comments:
"No matter where I go, or how I change; it is always there to greet me."
I really loved this line in your response about nature. I completely agree! Nature is one of those things in our lives that we will always be able to count on no matter what. No matter where we go, or who we become it is always there to welcome us. Nature was given to us to heal us. After everything we go through, good times and bad times, everything that we put each other through, we can always expect that nature will cure us of whatever we need to be cured.
Your response about the ocean is completely true. It's ironic almost that even though the ocean is a part of nature that is constantly in motion, it is a thing that you can depend on. I too have always lived near the ocean and it has become a cleansing place for me as well.
Bro I know exactly what your talking about! When I go down to the beach at look at the waves it makes me so calm and at peace. Its almost surreal ya know. That connection that the ocean and people have is so lagit. And your constant need for change and action is so gnarly. I completely agree! I rather get up off my butt and go shred some waves rather than sit around doing homework or watching t.v. And that feeling how you can leave nothing back and just charge it and hope everything turns out alright..that is so beastly! That's the kind of attitude people should have! Go after it even if your gonna get hurt its totally worth it if you succeed. And dude I know exactly what your talking about with the expectations thing. I was so stoked to go see Quantum of Solace and was expecting perfection and I walked out of there somewhat bummed because it wasn't everything I thought it would be. Your ideas are so gnarly! Way to work!
I was very entertained by this blog. This definitely fits u well. I know exactly what you mean by the water being stable and connected with everything. I also respect and think it's really cool how you like change and living life on the edge. Just like in your movie "Into the Wild." (Period 6 joke). This was a great essay.
Post a Comment